{"id":82939,"date":"2015-03-01T19:37:20","date_gmt":"2015-03-01T16:37:20","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/epochtimestr.com\/?p=82939"},"modified":"2015-03-01T22:48:47","modified_gmt":"2015-03-01T19:48:47","slug":"fez-medinasindan-aklimda-kalanlar","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/epochtimestr.com\/index.php\/fez-medinasindan-aklimda-kalanlar","title":{"rendered":"Fez Medinas\u0131ndan Akl\u0131mda Kalanlar"},"content":{"rendered":"

Fas g\u00f6rmek istedi\u011fim \u00fclkelerden biriydi. Birka\u00e7 defa yeltenmi\u015f fakat vazge\u00e7mi\u015ftim. Sonra, bunald\u0131\u011f\u0131m bir d\u00f6nemde, gidip g\u00f6rmek \u00a0istedim. \u00a01 ay \u00f6ncesinden biletimi al\u0131p k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir b\u00fct\u00e7e ay\u0131rarak 9 g\u00fcnl\u00fck bir program yapt\u0131m.<\/p>\n

Kazablanka\u2019ya indi\u011fimde sabah 5:00 gibiydi. Havaalan\u0131ndaki kapal\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcme girdi\u011fimde ilk deneyimledi\u011fim \u015fey hafif bir baharat kokusu oldu. Hindistan kadar keskin olmasa da, ilk ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m koku, ilk ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131m deneyim bu oldu. Kokuyu ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m o an, yabanc\u0131 topraklarda oldu\u011fumu bir an i\u00e7in daha iyi idrak ettim.<\/p>\n

\"1782381_10152831975083347_3609935766700185964_o\"<\/a>
Fez medinas\u0131 sar\u0131 ta\u015ftan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f surlarla \u00e7evrili. \u00c7ok eski bir yerle\u015fim b\u00f6lgesi olan fez medinas\u0131 d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck labirentlerinden biri. (Foto\u011fraf: Epoch Times)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Kazablanka\u2019da kalmayaca\u011f\u0131m i\u00e7in, sabah trenini beklemeye ba\u015flad\u0131m. Havaalan\u0131 i\u00e7erisinde alt katta tren gar\u0131 var. 6 gibi trene binerek Fez\u2019e do\u011fru yol almaya ba\u015flad\u0131m.<\/p>\n

\u00c7ok yorgun oldu\u011fum i\u00e7in trende uyuyakalm\u0131\u015f\u0131m. Uyand\u0131\u011f\u0131mda Fez\u2019e \u00e7ok yakla\u015fm\u0131\u015ft\u0131k. 4 saat s\u00fcr\u00fcyor Kasablanka- Fez yolu. Tren ise bu yolu alman\u0131n en konforlu ve ucuz yolu.<\/p>\n

\"10854933_10152848997298347_7039667250688121011_o\"<\/a>
Binlerce ki\u015finin ya\u015fad\u0131\u011f\u0131 Fez Medinas\u0131nda 9700 sokak ve 13.000 d\u00fckkan bulunuyor. Sokaklar ak\u015fam sekize kadar daima dolu. (Foto\u011fraf: Epoch Times)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fas\u2019l\u0131lar bana hi\u00e7 de yabanc\u0131 gelmedi. Tav\u0131r ve hareketleri bize \u00e7ok benziyor. Sizi rahats\u0131z edecek bir bak\u0131\u015f yok \u00fczerinizde. T\u00fcrk oldu\u011funuzu duyduklar\u0131nda genelde daha s\u0131cak davran\u0131yorlar fakat surats\u0131z olanlar\u0131 da var elbette, her yerde oldu\u011fu gibi.<\/p>\n

Fez, Marakesh ve di\u011fer baz\u0131 \u015fehirlerde oldu\u011fu gibi 2 ana k\u0131s\u0131mdan olu\u015fuyor. Eski \u015fehir ve yeni \u015fehir. Fas\u2019\u0131, k\u00fclt\u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fc ve tarihini anlayabilmek i\u00e7in Medina denen bu eski \u015fehir k\u0131s\u0131mlar\u0131nda dola\u015fman\u0131z, mimarisini g\u00f6rmeniz, sokaklar\u0131nda kaybolman\u0131z gerek. \u00a0Fez Medinas\u0131 ise devasa b\u00fcy\u00fckl\u00fckte. 9700 ara sokaktan olu\u015fuyor ve bu sokaklara araba girmesi yasak. Y\u00fck ta\u015f\u0131mas\u0131 kat\u0131rlarla yap\u0131l\u0131yor. Fez Medinas\u0131 d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck labirenti ve d\u00fcnyan\u0131n en b\u00fcy\u00fck ara\u00e7s\u0131z \u015fehri olarak kabul ediliyor. Bu muazzam medina, ayn\u0131 zamanda Unesco\u2019nun d\u00fcnya k\u00fclt\u00fcr miras\u0131 listesinde yer al\u0131yor.<\/p>\n

\"1966325_10152836019718347_1729541291960835144_o\"<\/a>
Fez \u015fehrinin ara sokaklar\u0131nda ta\u015f\u0131mac\u0131l\u0131k kat\u0131r ve at arabalar\u0131 ile ger\u00e7ekle\u015fiyor \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc bu darac\u0131k sokaklara araba ile girilmesi m\u00fcmk\u00fcn de\u011fil. imkans\u0131z (Foto\u011fraf: Epoch Times)<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Eski \u015fehre girdikten sonra kalaca\u011f\u0131m pansiyonu kendi ba\u015f\u0131ma bulamayaca\u011f\u0131m\u0131 anlad\u0131m ve birilerine sormam gerekiyordu. Yan\u0131mda bir anda beliren bir gen\u00e7 yard\u0131m etmek istedi ama biraz fazla heyecanl\u0131. H\u0131rs\u0131za benziyordu tav\u0131rlar\u0131 ve gelirken h\u0131rs\u0131za kar\u015f\u0131 dikkatli olmam konusunda yaz\u0131lar okumu\u015ftum. Elimden kolumdan tutup \u00e7eki\u015ftiriyor. Ya\u015fl\u0131 bir adam\u0131 g\u00f6stererek onun arad\u0131\u011f\u0131m pansiyonda \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledi.<\/p>\n

\"10974369_10152831791443347_6626572658890257210_o\"<\/a>
Fas’\u0131n geleneksel terliklerini satan d\u00fckkanlar \u0131\u015f\u0131l \u0131\u015f\u0131l par\u0131ld\u0131yorlar. Fez \u015fehrinin sokaklar\u0131nda \u00e7ok g\u00fczel el yap\u0131m\u0131 \u00fcr\u00fcnler bulabilirsiniz.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Birlikte y\u00fcr\u00fcmeye ba\u015flad\u0131k. Ya\u015fl\u0131 olan adam bana ba\u015fka bir otel tavsiye etti. \u00d6nce, klasik komisyoncu oldu\u011funu d\u00fc\u015f\u00fcnd\u00fc\u011f\u00fcm i\u00e7in yok dedim ama sonra bakt\u0131m ki \u00e7ok da k\u00f6t\u00fc niyetli g\u00f6r\u00fcnm\u00fcyor hadi g\u00f6ster bakal\u0131m dedim. G\u00f6sterdi\u011fi otel ger\u00e7ekten kolay bir yerdeydi ve \u00e7ok temizdi. Ok deyip kalmaya karar verdim. Sonra beni biraz dola\u015ft\u0131rd\u0131 g\u00fcya rehberlik ediyormu\u015f gibi. Kendisine ufak bir bah\u015fi\u015f verip yollad\u0131m fakat o gen\u00e7 olan da para istiyor. Ona vermedim, \u0131srar etti hatta kolumdan falan tutunca ufak bir iti\u015f kak\u0131\u015f olacakt\u0131 neredeyse.<\/p>\n

\"11025761_10152843471358347_8656404128059258031_n\"<\/a>
medina sokaklar\u0131 her an insan dolu. s\u0131cak ekmek tezgahlar\u0131n\u0131 her k\u00f6\u015feba\u015f\u0131nda g\u00f6rebilmeniz m\u00fcmk\u00fcn.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fez, bence, g\u00f6r\u00fclmesi gereken bir yer. Hala turistik de\u011fil ya da turistini kaybetmi\u015f \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc daha sonralar\u0131 Fez \u015fehrinin turizm konusunda yanl\u0131\u015f bir yol izledi\u011fini duydum Marrakesh\u2019teki baz\u0131 esnaflardan.<\/p>\n

Fez Medinas\u0131nda tam 13.000 d\u00fckkan var. \u00c7ok g\u00fczel el sanatlar\u0131 var. Dericiler, metal i\u015f\u00e7ili\u011fi, dokumac\u0131l\u0131k, ah\u015fap oymac\u0131l\u0131\u011f\u0131 vs. Sokaklar\u0131nda kayboldum ama hakikaten kayboldum. Yard\u0131m almadan d\u0131\u015far\u0131 \u00e7\u0131kamad\u0131m. Rehber olarak da k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck \u00e7ocuklar\u0131 kulland\u0131m.<\/p>\n

\"10923497_10152831700248347_5449308659569192068_o\"<\/a>
Fez sokaklar\u0131 birbirinden lezzetli yemek tezgahlar\u0131 ile dolu. Her t\u00fcrl\u00fc et ve sebze \u00fcr\u00fcn\u00fcn\u00fc \u00e7ok taze bir \u015fekilde t\u00fcketebilirsiniz.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Fas yemekleri \u00e7ok lezzetli ve her \u015fey \u00e7ok taze. \u00c7ok \u015fa\u015f\u0131rd\u0131m, sokaklarda sat\u0131lan her \u015feyin bu kadar taze olaca\u011f\u0131n\u0131 beklemiyordum. \u00a0Sebze meyve \u00e7ok bol. Fiyatlar ne \u00e7ok ucuz ne de pahal\u0131. Muzun kilosu 2 lira \u00f6rne\u011fin.<\/p>\n

\u015eimdilik g\u00fcvenlik s\u0131k\u0131nt\u0131s\u0131 ya\u015famad\u0131m ama yine de bir bayan\u0131n tek ba\u015f\u0131na gitmesini \u00e7ok tavsiye etmem. \u00a0Bir ara sokaklarda dolan\u0131rken kalabal\u0131k bir T\u00fcrk bir grup g\u00f6rd\u00fcm, ellerinde harita y\u00f6nlerini bulmaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015f\u0131yorlard\u0131.<\/p>\n

\"1782381_10152831975093347_8363352847537399470_o\"<\/a>
Fez eski kenti dokusuyla g\u00f6z kama\u015ft\u0131ran bir \u015fehir.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

Bu arada Fez Medinas\u0131 tamamen surlara \u00e7evrilmi\u015f geni\u015f bir b\u00f6lge. Surlar, duvarlar, evler her \u015fey sar\u0131 ta\u015ftan yap\u0131lm\u0131\u015f. \u015eehrin sapsar\u0131 bir dokusu var. Eski \u015fehre girdi\u011finiz k\u0131s\u0131mda b\u00fcy\u00fck bir meydan var. Burada sokak performanslar\u0131, sat\u0131c\u0131lar ve kalabal\u0131klarla kar\u015f\u0131la\u015f\u0131yorsunuz.<\/p>\n

Sokak yemeklerini \u00f6zellikle de tatl\u0131lar\u0131 denemeye ba\u015flad\u0131m ve hepsi \u00e7ok lezzetli. Ac\u0131bademden tutun g\u00f6zlemeye kadar her \u015fey var sokaklarda.<\/p>\n

\"10974369_10152831791438347_5832364674887322379_o\"<\/a>Ertesi g\u00fcn benden para isteyen o \u00e7ocu\u011fa yine rastlad\u0131m. Hala gelip para istiyor. Bari 1 dolar ver kar\u0131ma hi\u00e7bir \u015fey g\u00f6t\u00fcremedim diyor ama yalan s\u00f6yledi\u011fi her halinden, tav\u0131rlar\u0131ndan belli. Vermedim, gidip ya\u015fl\u0131 arkada\u015f\u0131ndan almas\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledim.<\/p>\n

Buraya gelme ama\u00e7lar\u0131mdan birisi de foto\u011fraf \u00e7ekmekti fakat Fasl\u0131lar genel olarak foto\u011fraflar\u0131n\u0131n \u00e7ekilmesinden ho\u015flanm\u0131yorlar, o y\u00fczden m\u00fcthi\u015f y\u00fczler g\u00f6rmeme ra\u011fmen maalesef \u00e7o\u011funu alamad\u0131m. Elimden geldi\u011fince yakalamaya \u00e7al\u0131\u015ft\u0131m.<\/p>\n

\"10848915_10152831949148347_8561522224488095707_o\"<\/a>
Fas n\u00fcfusunun b\u00fcy\u00fck k\u0131sm\u0131 Berberi halk\u0131ndan olu\u015fuyor. Orta ya\u015f\u0131n \u00fczerindeki insanlar sokaklarda genellikle kendi yerel k\u0131yafetleri ile dola\u015f\u0131yorlar.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n

2 g\u00fcn kald\u0131ktan sonra Chefchaouen\u2019e gitmek \u00fczere CTM otob\u00fcs terminaline gittim. Zaten ba\u015fka \u015fans\u0131n\u0131z yok \u00e7\u00fcnk\u00fc yerel otob\u00fcsler \u00e7ok k\u00f6t\u00fc. CTM terminalindeki surats\u0131z adam bilet olmad\u0131\u011f\u0131n\u0131 s\u00f6yledi, 2 g\u00fcn yer yokmu\u015f \u00fcstelik. Ba\u015fka alternatif var m\u0131 diyorum, oral\u0131 bile olmuyor. Strese girdim. Taksiye atlad\u0131\u011f\u0131m gibi di\u011fer terminale gittim. Orada CTM in ba\u015fka bir b\u00fcrosu daha varm\u0131\u015f ve g\u00fcnl\u00fck 10 bilet kontenjanlar\u0131 varm\u0131\u015f. Sadece 2 bilet kalm\u0131\u015f, hemen ald\u0131m tabi yoksa muhtemelen mavi \u015fehri g\u00f6remeyecektim. \u00a0Fez Medinas\u0131n\u0131 sevdim, buraya 2 g\u00fcn ay\u0131r\u0131rsan\u0131z tatmin olarak ayr\u0131labilirsiniz.<\/p>\n

\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"

Fas g\u00f6rmek istedi\u011fim \u00fclkelerden biriydi. Birka\u00e7 defa yeltenmi\u015f fakat vazge\u00e7mi\u015ftim. Sonra, bunald\u0131\u011f\u0131m bir d\u00f6nemde, gidip g\u00f6rmek \u00a0istedim. \u00a01 ay \u00f6ncesinden biletimi al\u0131p k\u00fc\u00e7\u00fck bir b\u00fct\u00e7e ay\u0131rarak 9 g\u00fcnl\u00fck bir program yapt\u0131m. Kazablanka\u2019ya indi\u011fimde sabah 5:00 gibiydi. Havaalan\u0131ndaki kapal\u0131 b\u00f6l\u00fcme girdi\u011fimde ilk deneyimledi\u011fim \u015fey hafif bir baharat kokusu oldu. Hindistan kadar keskin olmasa da, ilk ald\u0131\u011f\u0131m […]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":6,"featured_media":82948,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"open","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"_yoast_wpseo_focuskw":"","_yoast_wpseo_title":"","_yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"","_bbp_topic_count":0,"_bbp_reply_count":0,"_bbp_total_topic_count":0,"_bbp_total_reply_count":0,"_bbp_voice_count":0,"_bbp_anonymous_reply_count":0,"_bbp_topic_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_reply_count_hidden":0,"_bbp_forum_subforum_count":0,"footnotes":"","_yoast_wpseo_focuskw_text_input":""},"categories":[519,88],"tags":[],"yoast_head":"\nFez Medinas\u0131ndan Akl\u0131mda Kalanlar - The Epoch Times TR<\/title>\n<meta name=\"robots\" content=\"index, follow, max-snippet:-1, max-image-preview:large, max-video-preview:-1\" \/>\n<link rel=\"canonical\" href=\"https:\/\/epochtimestr.com\/index.php\/fez-medinasindan-aklimda-kalanlar\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:locale\" content=\"tr_TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:type\" content=\"article\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:title\" content=\"Fez Medinas\u0131ndan Akl\u0131mda Kalanlar - The Epoch Times TR\" \/>\n<meta property=\"og:description\" content=\"Fas g\u00f6rmek istedi\u011fim \u00fclkelerden biriydi. 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